 The lyrics of the Fray's song "Vienna" ran melodiously through my head throughout my Vienna adventure as a soothing soundtrack. But as I saw the city for myself, I realized that there are no words that can properly capture the beauty of the city of Vienna. Stepping out of the metro or the "U" and into Stephansplatz square on Thursday evening, I was absolutely blown away. My aversion to the bitter cold was overtaken by the absolutely awe and amazement in lieu of the sights around me - the towering cathedral, the warmly lit storefronts, the men in traditional Viennese costume peddling Mozart concerts.
We wandered through the freezing rain and found ourselves a quirky little "Rosenberg Markt" restaurant. Not only were the staff members sporting liederhosen and traditional Viennese garb, but there was a huge spread of fresh Viennese delicacies: fresh fruits, thick bean soup, pastas and breads, chocolate cake, and Gruner Veltliner wine. Needless to say, we were quite satisfied with our chance selection.
After dinner, we were lucky enough to find a beautiful doubledecker Starbucks along the main drag near Stephansplatz. Although the price for a familiar taste of home was a bit pricier than usual, we couldn't help but indulge in the lovely taste treat. Just across the street from the Starbucks, the Vienna State Opera House was broadcasting an opera on a giant screen in the middle of the square.
Before long, my roommate Ashley and I hopped back on the U in search of our hotel for the evening. Although the directions indicated that the hotel was only 350 meters from the U stop, there was no indication of which direction to head in. After bracing the snowy cold for about 45 minutes, passing a few schnitzel stands, and asking 5 different people for directions, we made it! We crashed as soon as our heads hit the pillow.
 Friday was our day of true exploration. First off, we stopped in Cafe Central (at the brilliant suggestion of my father) where Austria's brilliant thinkers used to congregate for chess and brainstorming. With the high ceilings, the Old World furniture, historical paintings, strong coffee, and astoundingly fresh warm rolls, our breakfast at Cafe Central was truly unforgettable. A true breakfast of champions! I would say that a visit to Cafe Central is an absolute must while in Vienna. Next, we made our way to Hofburg Palace - an absolutely gorgeous and HUGE piece of Austrian history. Along the way, we spotted dozens of horse-drawn carriages and horses with little earmuffs to ease the pain of the bitter cold. We couldn't help but smile at seeing this! Ashley and I opted to take the tour of the Imperial Apartments in the Palace. There were what seemed to be thousands of different plates that the royals themselves used throughout history. Some were golden, others porcelain, many were detailed with intricate designs and seals. There were utensils that I did not even recognize! Ah, the luxuries of being a royal...
 The Sisi Museum of the Hofburg Palace was one of my favorite parts of the trip. The exhibit featured artifacts and photographs from the Empress Elizabeth's life, in a chronological account of her tumultuous life. I loved piecing together the story of this remarkable royal who had a difficult transition into her esteemed position. The exhibit intrigued me and made me anxious to further investigate the life of this deep character. We spent the rest of the afternoon popping in and out of quaint Viennese shops. The selections varied from traditional to modern, from schnitzels to Swarovski crystals. After a powernap back at the hotel, we met up with one my sister's friends from La Salle to go out on the town for the night. He and his friends are part of a year-long program in which they teach classes in local Viennese schools. It was nice to wander about with people who knew the little secrets and corners of the city. They took us to a hole-in-the-wall bar underground called " Zwoelf Apostelkeller" that we never would have found on our own! We knew that we were in for an authentic experience when we looked around to see groups of locals digging into schnitzels and sipping their lagers. We were quickly introduced to "Sturm" - a sweet and traditional Viennese wine. It was nice to chat with other Americans about their European experiences. They have only been here in Vienna for a month, but they spoke very highly of the people and the food and the atmosphere. We all came to the consensus that Target is one of the things that we miss most about America. It was refreshing to interact with some Americans in a foreign city and find some commonalities in our foreign experiences and struggles. Vienna was an absolute gem of a city - classic and breathtaking. I love that, as I travel from city to city, each one has a distinctive personality. This one happened to embody old world sophistication and luxury...with some traditional schnitzel flair. There was so much to explore and to do in the city, but the best part was simply wandering around and taking in the surroundings.
Last night, I got a taste of a classic American Sunday when I went to a local bar called “Fat Boy’s” with a few of my friends. Appropriately enough, Fat Boy’s is an all-American sports bar near the European Parliament where they screen ESPN and American football while serving up American style grub like chicken wings and nachos…yum yum! In my longing for a simple American indulgence, I asked for a Bud Light off of their bottled beer list, but I was unfortunately told that they actually didn’t have it – slightly disappointing! Something about how the shipments kept coming in expired. So I settled for Hoegaarden – when in Brussels, after all!
The crowd was surprisingly American, as well. It was very bizarre to encounter at least 25 random Americans in one place in Brussels. I never would have known there were so many in this city! The Eagles game assumed the prime position on the big screen, but it’s probably just as well considering the disappointing performance by my Ravens. As I watched McNabb and the boys dominate the field, I realized just how heartwarming it is to root for a pack of aggressive men in tight pants. It was very refreshing to realize that Americanized fun is not completely inaccessible in Brussels.
Just so readers are aware:
Our visit to the Beaches at Normandy was a truly humbling experience that brought home the reality of the devastation and sacrifice made by our great countrymen during WWII. Especially after reading Stephen Ambrose's account of the action and the patriotism in the Victors, I felt the monumental significance of the areas that we visited.
While it may seem strange that the beaches are now vacation destinations with beautiful homes and families walking about with their dogs, it is simply the reality of the way in which the land has changed. There are beautiful monuments, museums, and memorials that serve as solemn reminders of the lives lost. The memory of the courageous soldiers undeniably lives on through such tributes, and the profound sense of loss can be felt in this manner.
I hope that readers will understand that the enjoyment of the experience was in no way a sign of disrespect for the memory and the history of the soldiers. We are all well aware of the history and have nothing but the utmost respect and gratitude for the honorable men who gave their lives for their country and democracy.
The Brussels chill is starting to set in. It seems that while we were at Normandy, it creeped in (I've included a picture of a rainy black and white view from our balcony to capture the eery cold, but it is kind of difficult to see the actual rain haha). This week has been quite rainy, which is apparently quite characteristic of Brussels. Many of the natives have said that we have been incredibly lucky weather wise so far because there has usually been much more rain up to this point.
But on Wednesdays, we had to wade through rising waters as we ventured from campus to our apartments. I don't think that I have ever been so drenched in rain before (well, maybe Carolina Cup 2008, but that's another story...). When we arrived back to the apartment, we found that the basement apartment (lovingly referred to as "the bunker") where three Furman boys are living was flooded. Delightful. They were put up in a nice hotel for the evening, and the landlord had to come and do damage control. It was quite a little adventure.
Besides this incident, my week was pretty boring. I survived my midterms with minimal emotional scarring, and was finally able to get a check cashed after going to the same bank three times with no luck - I love Belgian administration.
This weekend, my roommate Nora and I decided to hold down the fort in Brussels. This is actually one of the few weekends that I will actually be here! We went to a dance club near Grand Place last night to hear some real house music. It was certainly interesting. A huge group from Vesalius was there, so it was kind of fun to see the awkward people from my classes dancing about and such.
Nora's parents are arriving on Monday, so it will be nice to experience the refreshing presence of American family. I have realized here that I value family and my personal connections at home so much more now that communication is so difficult. I will truly treasure those little phone chats with my Dad and the text message sessions with my big sister once I have them back. For now, I will suck it up and keep on enjoying my independent adventures!
 This past weekend, I headed to Normandy with the Furman crew. After an exhausting 7 hours bus ride from Brussels, we made it to the small town of Bayeux, France just after midnight on Friday. Upon entering our room at the good old Best Western, my roommate Ashley and I promptly collapsed. On Saturday morning, we made our way to the small town of Sainte-Mere-Eglise. Here, we explored the Airborne Museum – a tribute to the 82nd and 101st American Airborne Divisions. It warmed my heart to see the Maryland and South Carolina state flags handing side by side from the rafters of the museum ceiling! The building contained a huge C-47 plane, and dozens of real uniforms and artefacts donated by veterans’ families. Some of the gear even had blood stains on them, driving home for me the reality of the sacrifices made by these brave men. We then moved on to Utah Beach – a vast stretch of land where nearly 25,000 soldiers landed on D Day in 1944. The cold and windy beach was so empty and serene that it was impossible to fathom the chaos and devastation that took place there. My favorite stop of the day was Pointe-du-Hoc. The high cliff overlooking the beaches is absolutely covered in huge crater holes. Here I truly realized the devastation of the warfare as I saw the damage right in front of my eyes. The walls of the crater holes were so steep that I had to get Nora to help me climb out! We also paid a visit to the US cemetery in a small town called Colleville-sur-Mer. It was an incredible sight – rows of thousands of pristine white crosses along a huge stretch of green grass beyond a glorious bronze statue commemorating the “Spirit of American Youth.” The bells of the memorial chapel chimed the tune of “God Bless America” as we strolled through the site, and my heart swelled with pride. Saturday night was devoted to midterms. My roommate Ashley and I grabbed a quick bite from a local sandwich shop in Bayeux and headed back to the hotel. After struggling with the TV for a bit and phoning the front desk for assistance, we realized that a light switch had to be on in order to power the on and off switch – brilliant. Indulging in some CNN news coverage on the bleak outlooks for Indonesia and the progress of the Lisbon Treaty, I made lots of flash cards. So much for exploring the town...On Sunday, I woke to learn that 8 of the 20 students on our trip had been struck with food poisoning. I felt nauseous just at the thought. Fortunately, I managed to stay healthy as we headed out for day 2.
 After touring the Tapestry Museum in Bayeux where we learned about the tumultuous history of William the Conqueror, we made the half hour drive to Caen to see the World War II Memorial Museum. The museum featured absolutely incredible exhibits that illustrated both the background and the real life experiences of the World War II battles. The first film that we saw on D Day was without a doubt one of the most stunning historical depictions of warfare that I have ever seen. The powerful side-by-side display of the D Day events from both the German and Ally perspectives pulled the audience into the tanks, bunkers and ships with the soldiers. The aspect of the film that struck me the most was the stark contrast between the peaceful visions of the empty beach today when compared to the footage of the utter chaos that consumed the beaches on D Day with loud explosions and men collapsing into the sand. The film that followed was useful in that it pieced together a timeline of the battles at Normandy, it did not have quite the same emotional impact as the D Day film.
The historical exhibit in the museum helped me to construct the timeline of the warfare in my mind. The spiraling staircase that led down into the exhibit seemed appropriately metaphorical as it highlighted the “Failure of Peace” given the rise of fascism and the Wall Street crash. The museum displays did a wonderful job of portraying the warfare from every angle imaginable – from the engineering of planes to the construction of a parachute wedding dress. The information ranged from technical to emotional, so it was pretty cool to see both ends of the spectrum.All in all, it was a really eye-opening weekend. It was amazing to see this quaint little French town by the beach that ended up being a site of intense battle and devastation. Now on to midterms!
 Aaaaah Venice! What an astoundingly beautiful gem of a city! My experience in Venice was like a breath of fresh air, so utterly refreshing.
On our first morning, we ventured into the small town near Treviso where our hotel was located. Upon entering a small produce shop in search of fresh fruit, we received a warm greeting from the woman behind the counter. She excitedly greeted us with, "Bonjourno!" She called us beautiful girls, and proceeded to tell us that the apples we selected were gifts, insisting that we take them free of charge. Her motherly and sweet temperament was heartwarming - she embodied a personality I haven't really encountered in Brussels.
In a small coffee shop down the road, we ordered our first Italian cappuccinos. The barista dusted the foamy treats with cinnamon in the shape of a heart. It truly tasted as if it had been meticulously concocted by the coffee gods.
We took the short train into Venice early in the afternoon. As we stepped out of the train station in Venice, we were greeted by the breathtaking view of a beautiful bridge that crossed over the water and into the city. The pearly white stone of the bridge was majestic and fairytale-esque. From that point, there were only small boats and gondolas gliding through the maze of canals that run through the city streets. The residential buildings towered over us with beautiful flowers and gardens peaking out of the windows and balconies. As cliche as it sounds, it looked like a charming painting that one might find in a painting on the walls of a small restaurant in Little Italy to "set the mood." I will forever look at such paintings in a new light having been to Venice. I will never forget biting into the most savory panini I have ever tasted with the most juicy tomatoes, and being in my very own Italian painting in the middle of the Venetian streets.
We spent the first day wandering about in awe of the beautiful houses, popping into different stores to admire the craftsmanship of the classic glass jewelry and the handmade masks. It was wonderful to just explore with no agenda, just immersing ourselves in the new environment. Of course, we indulged in gelato...twice. Of course its taste defied verbal description.
On our second day, we toured the beautiful Doge's Palace in the middle of the grand St. Mark's square just off of the main canal. The rooms were adorned with gold and oil paintings that were perfected with incredible detail. I still cannot fathom how each column in the palace courtyard was so intricately designed with masterful sculptures and distinctive detail.
 Later in the afternoon, we simply had to take a gondola ride. Fortunately, the gondola driver, Franco, was especially fond of one of my travel buddies, so we were able to get an extra special tour. He allowed each of us to steer the gondola through the canals...a very tricky task! I think it's safe to say that each of us managed to steer it into the walls of the buildings. He was extremely lighthearted and fun. He had some memorable lines, such as, "People are like food. You have lots of good food, you are happy and energetic. But you have bad food, and it is like poison. It doesn't make you feel good." He also explained that, "Driving a gondola is like making love...you must put your body into it!" We passed Marco Polo's birthplace, and Casanova's house along the way, as well. It was quite a memorable adventure, gliding along the Venetian canal with Franco.
We ended the day with a delicious dinner by one of the canals. The waiter was extremely playful and sweet, clearly loving life and happy to share this happy spirit. Again, the positive Italian energy was comforting, and it even made me a bit homesick as I longed for the warmth of my family and friends at home.
While we only spent two days in Venice, we were able to see and do so much. It was fascinating to see a European city so different from Brussels. I without a doubt hope to return to Italy again.
Back to the grindstone! A work-filled week ahead in both class and the internship, and then off to Normandy for the weekend!
Yesterday, we had a visitor at work. After I was introduced as the new IDF Europe intern, he immediately asked me if I was from the United Kingdom. I told him that I am from the United States, and he looked at me with a puzzled look. A few minutes later, he said,
"You're really from America?" I nodded. "Why are you not so big and fat?" he said, motioning to his sides in an imaginative expansion of his own stomach. I was at a loss for words. "Uuuuuhh...that's just a stereotype. We're not all fat in the US," I replied defensively. But then I added, "Although I have noticed that there really aren't as many overweight people over here. It's a very different lifestyle."
My roommates and I recently lamented about how difficult it is to live day to day in Brussels sometimes. People stare at you quizzically and sternly, and they have no qualms about pushing you aside, or whispering judgmentally in front of your face. We long for the day when we will finally fit in again on US soil. In Bruges, I felt slightly more welcomed than I do here. But I will have a whole new appreciation for American living upon my return.
 This weekend, my friend Jennie from Furman came to visit us in Brussels! She is spending the fall semester studying in Groningen, a town in the Netherlands. She hopped a train and arrived on Friday night. We promptly took her downtown to meet up with some people from Vesalius and show her around.The Vesalius Student Government sponsored "Pub Golf" - a tour of the pubs in downtown Brussels. Some people were very into it, dressed up as golfers and gallivanting about. It was really entertaining. We separated from the group at one point in search of somewhere to dance. We ended up at a bar called Celtica. Downstairs, a man was jamming on his guitar to sweet tunes like "I'm Yours" by Jason Mraz. Upstairs, the lights were flashing and MTV videos were playing and music was thumpin. So, in a group of 5 Furman girls, we just danced. It was really entertaining and fun, and even more so when funny European boys approached us and we laughed at them. One asked where I was from, I replied, "The US." Apparently, this made him very pleased. He excitedly shouted at me, "I'm from Ireland!" It was very comical. What's funny about the dancing here is that it really is not nearly as provocative as some of the dancing that I've seen back in the States. Here, people just kind of bop around in their own little area, occasionally moving closer to a dance partner. But there really isn't as much "grinding," which is rather refreshing. It's funny to me that the advertisements are much more sexual and PDA's are much more prevalent when compared to the US, but the dancing etiquette is a bit more conservative. My friends and I agreed on this, and found this to be an interesting observation. After dancing for a bit, we stopped to get Jennie some Belgian frites with mayonnaise - a delightful treat. All in all, it was a pretty fun night.On Saturday, we decided to show Jennie some of the sights near our apartment. It was a beautiful day weather wise - warm and mid-70s, so we thought we would take advantage. We took her to the European Parliament buildings, and walked her through Parc Leopold, and then on to Cinquantenaire (the park with the giant archway). For dinner, we ordered some authentic Belgian Chinese food and had it delivered. It was surprisingly delicious! Later on, we took her to Grand Place to see all of the beautiful buildings lit up at night. We set her up with a true Belgian waffle and a Duvel beer so that she could get the full experience. We also took her to Delirium, an international style bar with over 2000 types of beer. There were lots of Americans and international visitors there, so it was a fun atmosphere.Today is a day for getting work done, unfortunately. We leave for Venice on Thursday, so I'm trying to get as much done as I can before then. It's funny because Jennie says that her classes are relatively easy (in one of them, 80% of the grade is based on attendance), and most of them are cancelled. In comparison, we have barely had any free time between internships and Vesalius classes. It puts into perspective for me just how much I am pushing myself on the trip, and I really appreciate how much I am learning - not just in my classes, but in daily living and working in a foreign city.Brussels has designated today "car free" day in the city. There are hoards of people just walking in the middle of the streets, and riding their bikes, and playing music, and being very loud outside of our building. It is certainly entertaining. Let's hope I can actually muster up the strength to be somewhat productive!
Since arriving in Brussels, I have noticed that the Europeans like their risque advertisements. It is not uncommon to be sitting in a bus stop, glance up, and see a large photo ad of a man in his skivvies modeling a cell phone or bottled water. Nudity is just not weird here (at least in the minds of Europeans). A girl in one of my classes offered me her gossip mag once she was finished with it, and I excitedly accepted. As I flipped through the pages, I noticed that this little gem was not quite the same as my American favorite, People - and not just because it was in French. While this magazine featured a similar section of celebrity photos, the actual content was very foreign to me. There were photographs of topless women that would never have made it on to American newsstands. This cultural discrepancy has inspired me to research the advertising gap between the US and Europe for an assignment in my Intercultural Communication class. I have already found some really interesting websites that highlight this stark contrast, including AdsOfTheWorld.com.
As I write this entry, I can't help but be distracted from my thoughts by the noisy street below our apartment. There is always an ample amount of honking going on. The drivers here are really rather aggressive. More than once, when I've been Skyping with someone back home, they overhear a car engine as it roars through the streets and ask, "What is that???" But it's just the sound of European road rage. No big deal. People like to stop very suddenly, and accelerate just as quickly, and scrape past one another with tricky maneuvers that would make me cringe were I driving on the road with them. They truly love zipping about in their little green cars.
Overall, this week has been pretty uneventful and low key. I think that I am finally getting used to the work and class schedule. I've definitely gotten the whole bus thing down, so I can just tune into my iPod on the way to work and not really pay attention. I haven't quite gotten used to the abrupt stops and holding my balance while standing on the bus, but I somehow feel that my clumsiness will prevent me from ever mastering such tricks.Last night at our weekly Furman meeting, we had a guest speaker. His name is Jonathan Addleton, and he is the new Ambassador to Mongolia. He has worked in Brussels for the past few years, focusing on aid and development in the EU, and he has worked in a number of different places including Cambodia, Yemen, and Jordan just to name a few. One of the points that he made that really struck me in light of our trip to Ypres was that the devastation of the world wars is apparent as you travel through Europe. While I have learned about these wars in history, it is quite another thing to actually encounter these "foreign" territories and witness the tension that still lingers below the surface.
 What a weekend we had! On Friday afternoon, we made the bus ride to Bruges. We got in around 8:00pm and ventured through the streets. It was absolutely beautiful! The buildings were old and majestic, built in a gothic style. Even at night, people leisurely rode their bikes through the winding streets. Although many of the stores were closed, we enjoyed taking in the sites as we wandered. It was strange to see a part of Belgium so different from Brussels. The streets were not nearly as dense and noisy. It was a much more peaceful and relaxing atmosphere. We felt much safer roaming about at night in Bruges than we do in our own neighborhood in Brussels. We stopped at a restaurant just outside of the main square. Next door, there was a lively little bar where some older folks were bopping to the rhythms of such sweet tunes as ABBA's "Dancing Queen" - we got a good chuckle out of that.
I especially enjoyed laying eyes on the famous Belfry Tower of Bruges that is featured in the film "In Bruges" starring Colin Farrell. My father and I watched the movie in preparation for my travels, and we were quite amused by the action-packed adventure through the beautiful Belgian town that is hailed as "the Venice of the North." The canals that run through the city were certainly gorgeous, but I will have to wait until my trip to the real Venice in a few weeks before I make the real comparison. We got lost on our way back from dinner, but it was more funny than frightening. We stopped in a snack shop for some guidance. Upon inquiring in French whether the man at a snack shop whether the man spoke English, he replied, "What?" It is hard to keep track of which parts of Belgium speak Dutch or French...Flanders is a Dutch area. Whoops!
Bright and early on Saturday morning, we headed out to Ypres to tour the historic sites of World War I. Our guide, Raoul, did a fantastic job of explaining the historical significance of the different sites along the way. After reading Winston Groom's "A Storm in Flanders," it was fascinating to see the places mentioned over and over on the pages as significant battle locations. Although the town looked as though it dated back to the medieval period, it was actually rebuilt in the 1920's after it was reduced to ruins in the warfare.
Moving on to the Menin Gate beyond the town center, the tribute to the soldiers put into perspective for me the staggering losses that accumulated in the brutal battles of World War I. It was eerie to think that less than 100 years ago, Haig was under attack on the very road on which the memorial stands, and that Plumer himself came to unveil the Memorial. The images of poppies and the list of names made these monumental sacrifices real in my eyes.The “In Flanders Fields” museum in the restored Cloth Hall provided a more interactive perspective of the World War I events in Flanders. Upon entering the museum, each of us received a card with the identity of a different person affected by the war as a soldier, nurse, etc. This was a unique way for all of us to feel personal investment in the war events. My historical figure, for instance, was a young French soldier who died in combat. The museum had an array of exhibits on topics ranging from weaponry to the Christmas truce that we read about in Groom’s book. One of the rooms focused on trench life, combining smoke and images to make the audience feel the panic and chaos of the situation. Raoul informed me that the museum has won numerous awards for its historical presentations, and I could clearly see why.
After touring Ypres, Raoul showed us the WWI cemeteries located through the Flanders countryside. We visited the Essex Farm memorial, for instance, where John McCrae wrote the famous poem, "In Flanders Fields." It was astounding to see rows and rows of graves, both marked and unmarked, for soldiers who lost their lives in "the Great War."
We also had the opportunity to explore the trenches that have been preserved out by Hill 62 at the Sanctuary Wood Museum just outside of the town of Ypres. It was insane to think that the soldiers cowered below the ground in those zigzagging tunnels in the freezing cold and rain. There were crater holes all throughout the trenches where huge shells had exploded. It was absolutely crazy to see with my own eyes the devastating effects of the battles I read about.
On Sunday, we had time to explore Bruges on our own. A few of us decided to climb the tower. The winding and narrow staircase was a bit scary, but we survived the climb and were rewarded with an incredible bird's eye view of the red-roofs scattered throughout the town. We then explored the streets and even saw a marching band perform in the main square. After a Haagen Dazs stop, we headed back to the hotel, exhausted from our adventures.
It was a strange feeling to return to Brussels and think, "Ah, it's good to be home." But that is, in fact, what it has become after living here for a month. And another week of my adventure begins...
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