 Growing up, my mom always told me that I was born the week that the Berlin Wall came down. She always thinks of me, she tells me, when she hears about the Wall. Strangely enough, I never really knew what this meant. I had no idea what the Berlin Wall stood for, and why it’s destruction was so significant. But after reading Anna Funder’s Stasiland and making a trip to Berlin last week, I learned firsthand what the fall of the Wall truly meant.
On Friday morning, we started our trip with a bus tour of the city, taking in all of the sights from West Berlin to East Berlin. We had an interesting German tour guide who had some insightful one-liners (i.e. “There is a candy store where you can go get shveets for the shveety”) and strange insights (i.e. “There was a bombing that killed more than 20,000 people…too bad”). I expected to see a significant difference between the two – a bleaker, more cold atmosphere in the East where the Stasi regime had taken control, and a more artistic and liberated West. But to tell you the truth, it was difficult to tell the difference between the two sides. They have already done a tremendous job of moving forward and filling the city with life. The streets were bustling with people and shops and restaurants. It was much more dynamic than I had anticipated. I expected to see stiff German citizens marching the streets in dark clothing. But it was a lively and beautiful city. We passed spectacular churches, monuments, and museums with architecture ranging from modern business buildings to historical row houses with high ceilings. Of course, one of my favorite things about the city was the presence of the Berlin Bears, colorful statues scattered throughout the city much like the lovely Crabs in Maryland. All of the souvenir shops had lovable stuffed bears that were tough to resist.
 We stopped at Checkpoint Charlie, the spot where the division between East and West was made and officials used to stand guard. It was undoubtedly a major tourist spot with stands selling fur hats, army jackets, and even DDR passport stamps. But thinking about the history of the location that separated two very different worlds was remarkable.
Throughout the city, there is still a line that runs along the sidewalk where the Wall used to stand. It’s eerie to look down and think of the physical barrier that used to loom over the people of the Berlin.
 It was positively surreal to touch the wall with my own hand, and to see the extraordinary display of artistic spirit that the standing stretch of the structure has become in what is called the East Side Gallery. The wall is covered in a series of different paintings, each with a unique identity using various colors, images and messages. The art on the surface of the wall represents more than just artistic talent, but also the perseverance of the German people. Rather than destroying reminders of the past, the people have turned this section into a tribute to overcoming the struggles of former division and suppression. The beautiful images and words running along the wall acknowledge overcoming the past, and confidently moving forward.
Although it was a bitterly cold weekend and there was not nearly enough time to take in all of the beautiful sights, it was truly special to finally connect with this legendary place that has been such a mystery to me.
 The lyrics of the Fray's song "Vienna" ran melodiously through my head throughout my Vienna adventure as a soothing soundtrack. But as I saw the city for myself, I realized that there are no words that can properly capture the beauty of the city of Vienna. Stepping out of the metro or the "U" and into Stephansplatz square on Thursday evening, I was absolutely blown away. My aversion to the bitter cold was overtaken by the absolutely awe and amazement in lieu of the sights around me - the towering cathedral, the warmly lit storefronts, the men in traditional Viennese costume peddling Mozart concerts.
We wandered through the freezing rain and found ourselves a quirky little "Rosenberg Markt" restaurant. Not only were the staff members sporting liederhosen and traditional Viennese garb, but there was a huge spread of fresh Viennese delicacies: fresh fruits, thick bean soup, pastas and breads, chocolate cake, and Gruner Veltliner wine. Needless to say, we were quite satisfied with our chance selection.
After dinner, we were lucky enough to find a beautiful doubledecker Starbucks along the main drag near Stephansplatz. Although the price for a familiar taste of home was a bit pricier than usual, we couldn't help but indulge in the lovely taste treat. Just across the street from the Starbucks, the Vienna State Opera House was broadcasting an opera on a giant screen in the middle of the square.
Before long, my roommate Ashley and I hopped back on the U in search of our hotel for the evening. Although the directions indicated that the hotel was only 350 meters from the U stop, there was no indication of which direction to head in. After bracing the snowy cold for about 45 minutes, passing a few schnitzel stands, and asking 5 different people for directions, we made it! We crashed as soon as our heads hit the pillow.
 Friday was our day of true exploration. First off, we stopped in Cafe Central (at the brilliant suggestion of my father) where Austria's brilliant thinkers used to congregate for chess and brainstorming. With the high ceilings, the Old World furniture, historical paintings, strong coffee, and astoundingly fresh warm rolls, our breakfast at Cafe Central was truly unforgettable. A true breakfast of champions! I would say that a visit to Cafe Central is an absolute must while in Vienna. Next, we made our way to Hofburg Palace - an absolutely gorgeous and HUGE piece of Austrian history. Along the way, we spotted dozens of horse-drawn carriages and horses with little earmuffs to ease the pain of the bitter cold. We couldn't help but smile at seeing this! Ashley and I opted to take the tour of the Imperial Apartments in the Palace. There were what seemed to be thousands of different plates that the royals themselves used throughout history. Some were golden, others porcelain, many were detailed with intricate designs and seals. There were utensils that I did not even recognize! Ah, the luxuries of being a royal...
 The Sisi Museum of the Hofburg Palace was one of my favorite parts of the trip. The exhibit featured artifacts and photographs from the Empress Elizabeth's life, in a chronological account of her tumultuous life. I loved piecing together the story of this remarkable royal who had a difficult transition into her esteemed position. The exhibit intrigued me and made me anxious to further investigate the life of this deep character. We spent the rest of the afternoon popping in and out of quaint Viennese shops. The selections varied from traditional to modern, from schnitzels to Swarovski crystals. After a powernap back at the hotel, we met up with one my sister's friends from La Salle to go out on the town for the night. He and his friends are part of a year-long program in which they teach classes in local Viennese schools. It was nice to wander about with people who knew the little secrets and corners of the city. They took us to a hole-in-the-wall bar underground called " Zwoelf Apostelkeller" that we never would have found on our own! We knew that we were in for an authentic experience when we looked around to see groups of locals digging into schnitzels and sipping their lagers. We were quickly introduced to "Sturm" - a sweet and traditional Viennese wine. It was nice to chat with other Americans about their European experiences. They have only been here in Vienna for a month, but they spoke very highly of the people and the food and the atmosphere. We all came to the consensus that Target is one of the things that we miss most about America. It was refreshing to interact with some Americans in a foreign city and find some commonalities in our foreign experiences and struggles. Vienna was an absolute gem of a city - classic and breathtaking. I love that, as I travel from city to city, each one has a distinctive personality. This one happened to embody old world sophistication and luxury...with some traditional schnitzel flair. There was so much to explore and to do in the city, but the best part was simply wandering around and taking in the surroundings.
 What a weekend we had! On Friday afternoon, we made the bus ride to Bruges. We got in around 8:00pm and ventured through the streets. It was absolutely beautiful! The buildings were old and majestic, built in a gothic style. Even at night, people leisurely rode their bikes through the winding streets. Although many of the stores were closed, we enjoyed taking in the sites as we wandered. It was strange to see a part of Belgium so different from Brussels. The streets were not nearly as dense and noisy. It was a much more peaceful and relaxing atmosphere. We felt much safer roaming about at night in Bruges than we do in our own neighborhood in Brussels. We stopped at a restaurant just outside of the main square. Next door, there was a lively little bar where some older folks were bopping to the rhythms of such sweet tunes as ABBA's "Dancing Queen" - we got a good chuckle out of that.
I especially enjoyed laying eyes on the famous Belfry Tower of Bruges that is featured in the film "In Bruges" starring Colin Farrell. My father and I watched the movie in preparation for my travels, and we were quite amused by the action-packed adventure through the beautiful Belgian town that is hailed as "the Venice of the North." The canals that run through the city were certainly gorgeous, but I will have to wait until my trip to the real Venice in a few weeks before I make the real comparison. We got lost on our way back from dinner, but it was more funny than frightening. We stopped in a snack shop for some guidance. Upon inquiring in French whether the man at a snack shop whether the man spoke English, he replied, "What?" It is hard to keep track of which parts of Belgium speak Dutch or French...Flanders is a Dutch area. Whoops!
Bright and early on Saturday morning, we headed out to Ypres to tour the historic sites of World War I. Our guide, Raoul, did a fantastic job of explaining the historical significance of the different sites along the way. After reading Winston Groom's "A Storm in Flanders," it was fascinating to see the places mentioned over and over on the pages as significant battle locations. Although the town looked as though it dated back to the medieval period, it was actually rebuilt in the 1920's after it was reduced to ruins in the warfare.
Moving on to the Menin Gate beyond the town center, the tribute to the soldiers put into perspective for me the staggering losses that accumulated in the brutal battles of World War I. It was eerie to think that less than 100 years ago, Haig was under attack on the very road on which the memorial stands, and that Plumer himself came to unveil the Memorial. The images of poppies and the list of names made these monumental sacrifices real in my eyes.The “In Flanders Fields” museum in the restored Cloth Hall provided a more interactive perspective of the World War I events in Flanders. Upon entering the museum, each of us received a card with the identity of a different person affected by the war as a soldier, nurse, etc. This was a unique way for all of us to feel personal investment in the war events. My historical figure, for instance, was a young French soldier who died in combat. The museum had an array of exhibits on topics ranging from weaponry to the Christmas truce that we read about in Groom’s book. One of the rooms focused on trench life, combining smoke and images to make the audience feel the panic and chaos of the situation. Raoul informed me that the museum has won numerous awards for its historical presentations, and I could clearly see why.
After touring Ypres, Raoul showed us the WWI cemeteries located through the Flanders countryside. We visited the Essex Farm memorial, for instance, where John McCrae wrote the famous poem, "In Flanders Fields." It was astounding to see rows and rows of graves, both marked and unmarked, for soldiers who lost their lives in "the Great War."
We also had the opportunity to explore the trenches that have been preserved out by Hill 62 at the Sanctuary Wood Museum just outside of the town of Ypres. It was insane to think that the soldiers cowered below the ground in those zigzagging tunnels in the freezing cold and rain. There were crater holes all throughout the trenches where huge shells had exploded. It was absolutely crazy to see with my own eyes the devastating effects of the battles I read about.
On Sunday, we had time to explore Bruges on our own. A few of us decided to climb the tower. The winding and narrow staircase was a bit scary, but we survived the climb and were rewarded with an incredible bird's eye view of the red-roofs scattered throughout the town. We then explored the streets and even saw a marching band perform in the main square. After a Haagen Dazs stop, we headed back to the hotel, exhausted from our adventures.
It was a strange feeling to return to Brussels and think, "Ah, it's good to be home." But that is, in fact, what it has become after living here for a month. And another week of my adventure begins...
 Yesterday, my roommate Ashley and I decided that we wanted to be tourists in Brussels. Both of us begin our internships this week (unlike many of the other students on the trip), so we thought it would be best to stay close to "home" and skip the group trip to Antwerp.
After searching for a Bank of America compatible ATM along Avenue Marnix with no success, we ventured over to the Royal Palace to scope out the site. Admission is free (always a plus), and it will only be open for tours through August. The grounds are beautiful with maze-like gardens and intricate sculptures. It is a magnificent piece of property unlike anything I've seen in America. Upon entering, we were told to leave our bags with some ladies at the entrance in a purse check. Being the paranoid protector of my beloved Christmas gift purse that I am, I got antsy. Luckily, Ashley had similar sentiments. We wandered through the rooms along a carpeted pathway of ogling tourists, and stood in awe of the luxurious surroundings. We saw countless paintings of monarchs and Belgian scenery. The light fixtures along cost significantly more than my college career, I'm sure. I commented to Ashley that, while it was a beautiful museum, I could not imagine settling in with my Cheerios at a fancy marble table in a plush satin chair under a chandelier of diamonds and bopping around to Shakira. It got me thinking about how maybe stuffy people aren't really so stuffy, they're just conforming to their environment. There is no way I could be chill in that place. Now mind you the king resides in a different palace with his family, but I am sure that it is no less extravagant.
Anyway, I was soon reunited with my purse and belongings (much to my relief), and we continued on to the downtown area via the metro. Of course we got sucked in to buying a few school supplies to help us stay organized, and this led to a few clothing items to keep us warm and fashionable in the coming months. I even purchased a beautiful scarf of bright turquoise and pink and silver from a woman on the street for only 5 euro! Scarves are all the rage here right now. Girls wear them everywhere. We made it home after a short walk from the Merode metro and a grocery stop. After reading and tidying up a bit, we declared it a movie night. We watched Mr. and Mrs. Smith because it was on TV in English with Dutch subtitles. Nora decided to go out on the town after her day in Antwerp, but Ashley and I opted to stay in and watch a very bizarre movie that happened to be in English and involved a magic 8 ball and a highway and the girl who played the Pink Power Ranger. We ended up watching the whole thing because it was just too strange and terrible to turn away from.
Today has officially been declared a Lazy Sunday. I finally finished reading Winston Groom's "A Storm in Flanders" for our trip to Bruges in a few weeks, so now I just have to write the outline for the assignment. I found the book fascinating considering history and I don't usually get along too well. I'm anxious to see the trenches and the sites that I read about.
The rest of the day is full of homework and leisure. I am making a special tofu dish for dinner, so I'll post the final verdict on the outcome.
My internship starts tomorrow and I am ridiculously nervous. I haven't the slightest idea what to expect. But that's what adventure is all about. Right?
 Also, on the tour yesterday, we visited one of the Brussels landmarks called "The Atomium" - a tall DNA looking structure that could pass for the set of the Matrix. From the very top of the structure, we noticed that there were people leaping and sliding rapidly down a zip line rope. The jump is about 300 feet high, and it is known as the "Death Ride." Nora and I are considering taking the leap...
We've been in the apartment for about 2 days now, and it is wonderful to have a place to clean and decorate and just relax.
Yesterday, we did a 3 hour bus tour of the city of Brussels (above is a picture of the elegant Palais Royal de Bruxelles). It is so much bigger than I realized! People keep saying the it is a small city, but I swear, it seems insanely bigger and more complicated than Baltimore! There are some beautiful parks with ponds and fountains and beautiful trees. But only a few streets away from the beautiful greenery, the downtown area suddenly appears with lots of buildings and row houses. It is very eclectic to say the least...
Today, we went to a local farmer's market that had everything from socks and robes to gourmet cheese. It was fascinating! My roommates and I bought some fresh fruit and vegetables, and I even purchased a simple dress for 3 euro.
On a random note, I feel like a cultural prude here. Walking through the grocery store today, we heard the familiar jams of Snoop Dogg. This is fine to hear at a party or something, but in a family-oriented grocery store? Moms are pushing strollers about to the sweet words of "bull s***" and other profanity. So strange! One of the top songs on the video countdown these days is "F*** You" by Lily Allen. It is a fab song, but I was rather surprised to hear it in a nice outdoor restaurant the other day! Also, Nora and I decided to watch the movie "Showgirls" for some comical entertainment when it was on TV the other night. Little did we know that the uncensored version being shown on TV was full of nudity and explicit scenes. Now we know to brace ourselves if we intend to do some innocent channel-surfing.
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