On Tuesday evening, I had the pleasure of chatting with my sister’s 6th grade class from St. Ursula’s school in Baltimore, Maryland.  Thanks to the wonderful technology of Skype, I was beamed into their classroom for a video chat. 

It was pretty interesting to hear their questions and gain some insight into their assumptions about European travel.  Many of them were curious about the food over here: “Do they eat Brussels Sprouts in Brussels?...What was the food like in Venice?...Do people go to waffle stands in Brussels like they go to Starbucks in the US?...Do they have lots of cheese?”  And some of them were a bit more off the beaten path: “Was it crowded in Vienna?...What are their celebrities like?...What kind of landmarks do they have in Brussels?”  It was difficult to articulate just how tough it can be to navigate through this new world, but I did the best that I could.  Their reactions to my answers were pretty telling: they laughed when I explained that men are very nicely dressed and well-groomed, and they were pleasantly surprised to hear that Belgians appreciate “High School Musical” and the Black Eyes Peas.  The first thing that comes to mind when they hear about Europe and Europeans are the intense differences.  

  I realize that we’re all fascinated by these differences.  That’s what makes us want to travel and explore and learn.  It’s magical and exciting to go somewhere unfamiliar, but this enthusiasm makes it nearly impossible to anticipate the challenges that come along with the adventure.  But in the end, these difficulties merely add to the experience and make the beautiful discoveries that much more valuable.  It’s frustrating when I can’t figure out the map of the Parisian metro system, but it is well worth the hassle when I emerge from the underground to see the stunning vision of the Arc du Triomphe lit up against the deep blue of the evening sky.

I finally had my visitor from home this weekend when Michael came to see me during his fall break.  It was exciting to show him around my stomping grounds on Wednesday as we ventured around Brussels.  He came with me to work for a bit (what a trooper) so I could send out a few e-mails, and then we scoped out the view of Brussels in Louise.  We stopped in Place Jourdan so that he could try out the famous frites.  He was mighty impressed.  After a lovely dinner with Mary Catherine and David on Wednesday night, we took the boys to see the stupendous Mannekin Pis statue.  I honestly feel like the statue gets smaller and smaller every time I see it.  It is so tiny for being such a huge icon!  I insisted that Michael try the “gaufres” of Brussels while we scoped out the site…he gave another thumbs up of approval to the tasty Belgian treat. 

Next, we moved on to the famous Delirium bar where there are more beers than you could ever imagine.  I even decided to be adventurous and break from my fruity beer to try a new one – it was a “Speculaas” beer with warm spices like the famous Belgian Speculoos cookie.  It even came with a little Speculoos…delicious!  Michael enjoyed the crazy Belgian beer, but he was not so used to the high alcohol content.  It definitely takes some getting used to!

On Thursday, Michael, Mary Catherine, David and I headed to Paris by train.  It was so much nicer than the hustle and bustle and mayhem that is the Ryanair experience.  We simply boarded, sat, and arrived in a little over an hour.  On our first night, Michael and I took to wandering the Parisian streets.  After a quick dinner at 7:30 during which everyone was cocktailing and not yet eating, we stopped into Starbucks for a sweet homey treat.  The doubledecker Starbucks at St. Lazare provided a beautiful view of the busy Paris streets, overlooking a bustling intersection just a few blocks away from the Opera.  We then braced the Metro (which, I might add, is brimming with untapped talent like the mandolin-playing woman and the accordion aficionado) to explore the area near Arc du Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower.  It was so strange to see such iconic landmarks from famous books and movies emerge on the streets right before our eyes!

On Friday, we hit some of the legendary sites: the Louvre and the Notre Dame.  Both were astoundingly beautiful!  After about 3 hours at the Louvre, I feel like we had still barely touched it.  The Napoleon apartments were lavish and beautiful, the statues were classic and elegant, and of course, the Mona Lisa was…well, the Mona Lisa.  It was almost overwhelming that there were so many famous works of art under one roof.  Of course, I thought of the Da Vinci Code the entire time we walked around, as well.  The Notre Dame was simply breathtaking with its high ceilings and majestic pieces of stained glass.  I felt reminiscent of my Catholic School days as I wandered through the isles of the legendary establishment.  

At night, we ventured to Montmartre, a famous Parisian district that sits on a hill overlooking the city.  We randomly chose to sit down for dinner at “Chez Eugene,” and were pleasantly surprised to see that they had a live duet band entertaining for the evening.  I was in heaven: amazing company, delicious red wine, fresh fish, warm bread, waiters in berets, and a band that played everything from the Beatles to Jack Johnson.  The singer even invited Mary Catherine and I to join him in performing “Sweet Home Alabama,” but our familiarity with the lyrics was limited to the chorus, so we were rather unimpressive.  We had a fun time in the spotlight, though!  After dinner, we went to check out the view.  It was absolutely gorgeous to see the Eiffel Tower highlight by twinkling blue lights against the dark night skyline.  Unfortunately, rowdy teenagers and creepy old men selling Heineken to the youngins crowded the steps of the beautiful Basilica.  It was kind of amusing, but the romantic mood was a bit lacking.

The lyrics of the Fray's song "Vienna" ran melodiously through my head throughout my Vienna adventure as a soothing soundtrack.  But as I saw the city for myself, I realized that there are no words that can properly capture the beauty of the city of Vienna.  Stepping out of the metro or the "U" and into Stephansplatz square on Thursday evening, I was absolutely blown away.  My aversion to the bitter cold was overtaken by the absolutely awe and amazement in lieu of the sights around me - the towering cathedral, the warmly lit storefronts, the men in traditional Viennese costume peddling Mozart concerts.

We wandered through the freezing rain and found ourselves a quirky little "Rosenberg Markt" restaurant.  Not only were the staff members sporting liederhosen and traditional Viennese garb, but there was a huge spread of fresh Viennese delicacies: fresh fruits, thick bean soup, pastas and breads, chocolate cake, and Gruner Veltliner wine.  Needless to say, we were quite satisfied with our chance selection.

After dinner, we were lucky enough to find a beautiful doubledecker Starbucks along the main drag near Stephansplatz.  Although the price for a familiar taste of home was a bit pricier than usual, we couldn't help but indulge in the lovely taste treat.  Just across the street from the Starbucks, the Vienna State Opera House was broadcasting an opera on a giant screen in the middle of the square.

Before long, my roommate Ashley and I hopped back on the U in search of our hotel for the evening.  Although the directions indicated that the hotel was only 350 meters from the U stop, there was no indication of which direction to head in.  After bracing the snowy cold for about 45 minutes, passing a few schnitzel stands, and asking 5 different people for directions, we made it!  We crashed as soon as our heads hit the pillow.

Friday was our day of true exploration.  First off, we stopped in Cafe Central (at the brilliant suggestion of my father) where Austria's brilliant thinkers used to congregate for chess and brainstorming.  With the high ceilings, the Old World furniture, historical paintings, strong coffee, and astoundingly fresh warm rolls, our breakfast at Cafe Central was truly unforgettable.  A true breakfast of champions!  I would say that a visit to Cafe Central is an absolute must while in Vienna.

Next, we made our way to Hofburg Palace - an absolutely gorgeous and HUGE piece of Austrian history.  Along the way, we spotted dozens of horse-drawn carriages and horses with little earmuffs to ease the pain of the bitter cold.  We couldn't help but smile at seeing this!

Ashley and I opted to take the tour of the Imperial Apartments in the Palace.  There were what seemed to be thousands of different plates that the royals themselves used throughout history.  Some were golden, others porcelain, many were detailed with intricate designs and seals.  There were utensils that I did not even recognize!  Ah, the luxuries of being a royal...

The Sisi Museum of the Hofburg Palace was one of my favorite parts of the trip.  The exhibit featured artifacts and photographs from the Empress Elizabeth's life, in a chronological account of her tumultuous life.  I loved piecing together the story of this remarkable royal who had a difficult transition into her esteemed position.  The exhibit intrigued me and made me anxious to further investigate the life of this deep character.

We spent the rest of the afternoon popping in and out of quaint Viennese shops.  The selections varied from traditional to modern, from schnitzels to Swarovski crystals.

After a powernap back at the hotel, we met up with one my sister's friends from La Salle to go out on the town for the night.  He and his friends are part of a year-long program in which they teach classes in local Viennese schools.  It was nice to wander about with people who knew the little secrets and corners of the city.  They took us to a hole-in-the-wall bar underground called "Zwoelf Apostelkeller" that we never would have found on our own!  We knew that we were in for an authentic experience when we looked around to see groups of locals digging into schnitzels and sipping their lagers.  We were quickly introduced to "Sturm" - a sweet and traditional Viennese wine.  It was nice to chat with other Americans about their European experiences.  They have only been here in Vienna for a month, but they spoke very highly of the people and the food and the atmosphere.  We all came to the consensus that Target is one of the things that we miss most about America.  It was refreshing to interact with some Americans in a foreign city and find some commonalities in our foreign experiences and struggles.

Vienna was an absolute gem of a city - classic and breathtaking.  I love that, as I travel from city to city, each one has a distinctive personality.  This one happened to embody old world sophistication and luxury...with some traditional schnitzel flair.  There was so much to explore and to do in the city, but the best part was simply wandering around and taking in the surroundings.

Last night, I got a taste of a classic American Sunday when I went to a local bar called “Fat Boy’s” with a few of my friends.  Appropriately enough, Fat Boy’s is an all-American sports bar near the European Parliament where they screen ESPN and American football while serving up American style grub like chicken wings and nachos…yum yum!   In my longing for a simple American indulgence, I asked for a Bud Light off of their bottled beer list, but I was unfortunately told that they actually didn’t have it – slightly disappointing!  Something about how the shipments kept coming in expired.  So I settled for Hoegaarden – when in Brussels, after all! 

The crowd was surprisingly American, as well.  It was very bizarre to encounter at least 25 random Americans in one place in Brussels.  I never would have known there were so many in this city!  The Eagles game assumed the prime position on the big screen, but it’s probably just as well considering the disappointing performance by my Ravens.  As I watched McNabb and the boys dominate the field, I realized just how heartwarming it is to root for a pack of aggressive men in tight pants.  It was very refreshing to realize that Americanized fun is not completely inaccessible in Brussels. 

Just so readers are aware:

Our visit to the Beaches at Normandy was a truly humbling experience that brought home the reality of the devastation and sacrifice made by our great countrymen during WWII.  Especially after reading Stephen Ambrose's account of the action and the patriotism in the Victors, I felt the monumental significance of the areas that we visited.

While it may seem strange that the beaches are now vacation destinations with beautiful homes and families walking about with their dogs, it is simply the reality of the way in which the land has changed.  There are beautiful monuments, museums, and memorials that serve as solemn reminders of the lives lost.  The memory of the courageous soldiers undeniably lives on through such tributes, and the profound sense of loss can be felt in this manner.

I hope that readers will understand that the enjoyment of the experience was in no way a sign of disrespect for the memory and the history of the soldiers.  We are all well aware of the history and have nothing but the utmost respect and gratitude for the honorable men who gave their lives for their country and democracy.

This past weekend, I headed to Normandy with the Furman crew.  After an exhausting 7 hours bus ride from Brussels, we made it to the small town of Bayeux, France just after midnight on Friday.  Upon entering our room at the good old Best Western, my roommate Ashley and I promptly collapsed.

On Saturday morning, we made our way to the small town of Sainte-Mere-Eglise.  Here, we explored the Airborne Museum – a tribute to the 82nd and 101st American Airborne Divisions.  It warmed my heart to see the Maryland and South Carolina state flags handing side by side from the rafters of the museum ceiling!  The building contained a huge C-47 plane, and dozens of real uniforms and artefacts donated by veterans’ families.  Some of the gear even had blood stains on them, driving home for me the reality of the sacrifices made by these brave men.

We then moved on to Utah Beach – a vast stretch of land where nearly 25,000 soldiers landed on D Day in 1944.  The cold and windy beach was so empty and serene that it was impossible to fathom the chaos and devastation that took place there.

My favorite stop of the day was Pointe-du-Hoc.  The high cliff overlooking the beaches is absolutely covered in huge crater holes.  Here I truly realized the devastation of the warfare as I saw the damage right in front of my eyes.  The walls of the crater holes were so steep that I had to get Nora to help me climb out!

We also paid a visit to the US cemetery in a small town called Colleville-sur-Mer.  It was an incredible sight – rows of thousands of pristine white crosses along a huge stretch of green grass beyond a glorious bronze statue commemorating the “Spirit of American Youth.”  The bells of the memorial chapel chimed the tune of “God Bless America” as we strolled through the site, and my heart swelled with pride.

Saturday night was devoted to midterms.  My roommate Ashley and I grabbed a quick bite from a local sandwich shop in Bayeux and headed back to the hotel.  After struggling with the TV for a bit and phoning the front desk for assistance, we realized that a light switch had to be on in order to power the on and off switch – brilliant.  Indulging in some CNN news coverage on the bleak outlooks for Indonesia and the progress of the Lisbon Treaty, I made lots of flash cards.  So much for exploring the town...

On Sunday, I woke to learn that 8 of the 20 students on our trip had been struck with food poisoning.  I felt nauseous just at the thought.  Fortunately, I managed to stay healthy as we headed out for day 2.

After touring the Tapestry Museum in Bayeux where we learned about the tumultuous history of William the Conqueror, we made the half hour drive to Caen to see the World War II Memorial Museum.  The museum featured absolutely incredible exhibits that illustrated both the background and the real life experiences of the World War II battles.  The first film that we saw on D Day was without a doubt one of the most stunning historical depictions of warfare that I have ever seen.  The powerful side-by-side display of the D Day events from both the German and Ally perspectives pulled the audience into the tanks, bunkers and ships with the soldiers.  The aspect of the film that struck me the most was the stark contrast between the peaceful visions of the empty beach today when compared to the footage of the utter chaos that consumed the beaches on D Day with loud explosions and men collapsing into the sand.  The film that followed was useful in that it pieced together a timeline of the battles at Normandy, it did not have quite the same emotional impact as the D Day film.

The historical exhibit in the museum helped me to construct the timeline of the warfare in my mind.  The spiraling staircase that led down into the exhibit seemed appropriately metaphorical as it highlighted the “Failure of Peace” given the rise of fascism and the Wall Street crash.  The museum displays did a wonderful job of portraying the warfare from every angle imaginable – from the engineering of planes to the construction of a parachute wedding dress.  The information ranged from technical to emotional, so it was pretty cool to see both ends of the spectrum.


All in all, it was a really eye-opening weekend.  It was amazing to see this quaint little French town by the beach that ended up being a site of intense battle and devastation.


Now on to midterms!